Indonesian
Ayam Betutu
Balinese ayam betutu is chicken rubbed generously with bumbu genep, wrapped in banana leaves, then slowly steamed and roasted until the spices soak deep into the meat. Cassava leaves add the earthy bitterness that makes the dish feel true to its island roots.
Ingredients
- Bone-in chicken leg quarters2 pieces, about 700g total
- Cassava leaves120g
- Banana leaves2 large sheets
- Coconut oil3 tbsp
- Shallots8, peeled
- Garlic cloves5, peeled
- Red curly chilies5
- Bird's eye chilies3
- Fresh turmeric3 cm piece
- Fresh ginger3 cm piece
- Galangal3 cm piece
- Kencur2 cm piece
- Candlenuts3
- Toasted shrimp paste1 tsp
- Coriander seeds1 tsp
- Black peppercorns1/2 tsp
- Lemongrass2 stalks, white part finely sliced
- Kaffir lime leaves4, finely sliced
- Indonesian bay leaves2
- Palm sugar1 tsp
- Salt1 1/4 tsp
- Lime1/2
Method
- Rub the chicken with lime juice and 1/4 tsp salt, then set aside for 15 minutes.
- Blanch the cassava leaves in boiling water for 5 minutes, drain, rinse briefly, squeeze dry, and chop finely.
- Toast the coriander seeds, peppercorns, and candlenuts in a dry pan until fragrant.
- Grind the shallots, garlic, chilies, turmeric, ginger, galangal, kencur, toasted candlenuts, coriander, pepper, shrimp paste, palm sugar, and remaining salt into a coarse bumbu genep paste.
- Heat the coconut oil in a wok and fry the spice paste with the lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, and Indonesian bay leaves for 8 to 10 minutes until the oil separates and the paste smells cooked.
- Stir the chopped cassava leaves into the cooked spice paste and cook for 3 minutes.
- Reserve one third of the spiced cassava leaves, then massage the remaining spice mixture thoroughly over the chicken and into the slashes around the joints.
- Soften the banana leaves briefly over a flame or in hot water, then place each chicken piece on a leaf with the reserved spiced cassava leaves underneath and over the top.
- Wrap each chicken piece tightly in banana leaf and secure with toothpicks or kitchen twine.
- Steam the wrapped chicken over medium heat for 1 hour 15 minutes, adding water to the steamer as needed.
- Transfer the wrapped chicken to a 200°C oven and roast for 20 to 25 minutes until the banana leaves are charred in spots and the chicken is very tender.
- Rest for 10 minutes, then open the banana leaves and serve the ayam betutu with its spiced cassava leaves and cooking juices.
Common questions
Can I substitute banana leaves if I can’t find them for Ayam Betutu?
Yes. Use heavy-duty foil or parchment-lined foil to wrap the chicken tightly, then bake or steam it sealed. Banana leaves add aroma, but the spice paste and long cooking still give very good flavor.
How long should I cook Ayam Betutu so the chicken turns tender, not dry?
For bone-in leg quarters, plan on about 60–90 minutes covered cooking, depending on method and size. Cook until the thickest part reaches 74°C/165°F and the meat is very tender near the bone.
What are the most common mistakes when making the spice paste and leaves mixture?
The biggest mistakes are undercooking the bumbu, leaving it raw and sharp, or overcooking the cassava leaves until they go dull and mushy. Fry the paste until fragrant and the oil separates, and keep the leaves just tender.
How should I store leftover Ayam Betutu and cassava leaves?
Cool quickly, then refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 3 days. For longer storage, freeze the chicken and spiced cassava leaves separately for up to 2 months. Reheat gently so the chicken stays moist.
What should I serve with Ayam Betutu to make it a complete meal?
Serve it with steamed rice, extra sambal if you like heat, and a simple fresh cucumber or herb salad to balance the rich spices. The reserved spiced cassava leaves work well as a side or topping.